April 30, 2001 (Islamabad, Taxila, Battal, Battagram, Besham)

This was the first day I made my journey along miles of Karakoram Highway, one of the world wonders which links Pakistan and China. I arrived at the capital of Pakistan, Islamabad in the morning via domestic flight from Lahore. The road trip started from Islamabad, and the first stop was at Dharmarajika of Taxila. Taxila was famous for its Gandharan Buddhist archaeological sites. Dharmarajika housed a stupa which was built during Asoka period and was claimed to have the relics of Lord Buddha beneath. Taxila was extremely hot and dry, our group was not prepared for that as we did not prepare for our water supply in the first day. Nevertheless, it did not deter me from appreciating one of the oldest traces of Buddhism.

Next, I was brought to Taxila Museum which housed examples of Gandharan sculptures and arts. I still preferred the open museum of Dharmarajika.

I left Taxila in the afternoon and headed northwards. Once I reached Battal, the village children came rushing towards me with intense curiosity and I was surrounded within minutes. It was the first time I saw different features of Pakistani kids; some were of blue eyes and blonde hairs. Perhaps they were the descendants of the deserted army of the Alexandra the Great in his Asia invasion. Later on, I travelled to Battagram for a tea break before I lodged at Besham.

May 01, 2001 (Pattan, Shatial, Chilas, Jaglot, Nomal, Gilmit)

After a stuffy night at Besham, my Karakoram trip proceeded and overlooked at Pattan village from the highway. Building Karakorm Highway was something I could not imagine, as such a seemingly impossible project which pierced through various high mountain ranges at a cost of more than 500 men in the road-building was a success.

Soon, along the road, I began to see the Indus River which stretches 2880km from Tibet to Arabian Sea. The river has risen many ancient and current civilisations in the land of Pakistan. Passed by Dassu, I arrived at Shatial site which riddled with rock arts of Buddhist inscriptions and stupas. Though the site was not spectacular enough to make me stay there for hours, it served the purpose of let me appreciate that Buddhism was highly influential before.

The journey carried on and it brought me to Chilas, Jaglot and Nomal. The area was getting rocky and bare, but the mountains were appearing more awesome. After the Nomal valley, I saw an ancient silk route transversed along a hill slope. Footsteps were left by Buddhist piligrims and Chinese merchants along the remarkable silk road, including Fa Hsien in China Han Dynasty. This was my third continuation of visiting silk route, after my previous China silk road tour and Turkey trip. Looks like the silk route from several thousand years ago was often linked in my travel quests for exortic places. Wonder what is my next location to see another part of silk route? Iran? Moscow?

I began to have a glimpse of Rakaposhi mountain in Ghulmet. The air was getting breezy and the tell-tale cloud curtain warned of an imminent rain. After a tiring 10 hours of coach ride, I finally reached Gulmit to have my second night sleep. Whew!

May 02, 2001 (Gulmit, Sust, Khunjerab Pass, Hussaini, Hunza)

I woke early in the morning at Gulmit to have a refreshing stroll along Gulmit village before the rain came. The sleepy and peaceful village was settled along Hunza river and I was occasionally greeted by the friendly locals along the walk. Due to the fogginess, I regretfully missed the far view of Passu Cones. This was another example where a trip was always under the mercy of weather and climate. Packed the luggage, I headed northern towards the direction of China mainland.

The drizzle arrived while travelling along the highway to Khunjerab Pass, the border between Pakistan and China. After having a morning tea break at Sust, I passed Khunerjab Pass National Park which was claimed to have Marco Polo sheeps and snow leopards, though encountering such rare animals along the track was impossible. Then, the journey was welcomed by an unexpectedly snowfall. I was poorly equipped against the extreme coldness, and it reminded me of my previous 'cold' lesson in Turkey. The drive was getting harsher not just due to the sudden snow, but also it had to overcome series of tight road bends at high altitude. Encountering yaks, both domestic and wild, were frequent. I was almost amazed by the endurance of such extreme difficult environment the yaks had.

I had finally reached the famous Khunjerab Pass, reputed to be the highest paved border (4700m height) crossing Pakistan and China. Here saw a funny scenario where a signboard announced 'Pakistan Drive Left' and a short distance away, another sign told 'China Drive Right'. Hurriedly took some photos of remembrance before the coldness 'got into my nerves', I got on the coach within minutes and was knocked out without awaring I had already been exhausted by the cold and altitude.

As though the thrill at the pass was not enough, I reversed my route back down to Hussaini village to cross one of 2 spectacular rope bridges. Over the rushing Hunza river, the bridge was suspended by several steel ropes and paved with an array of wood planks, with uneven openings in between. Sometimes strides were made during crossing to step into the next wood planks; sometimes the strong wind swayed the whole bridge; sometimes I had to lean to one side to allow locals to bypass along the narrow path. After gripped the bridge metal ropes for minutes, my hands were numbed by coldness. Nevertheless, I was thrilled over the slow bridge walking.

Later, I had another long ride southwards. My stomach started to give me uneasiness. When I reached the hotel at Hunza, I vomitted out and had frequent diarrhoea. I started to worry whether I would be able to trek in the coming few days...